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Free dresser plans for a 900 mm-wide, 1100 mm-tall bedroom dresser with six identical drawers stacked in two columns of three. You get the parts list, dimensions, material breakdown, and an optimized cutting diagram you can download as a PDF and take to the workshop.

The carcass is 18 mm plywood with a center divider; drawer fronts are sized to leave a 3 mm reveal on every side for a clean inset look. Tall enough for folded clothes (sweaters, jeans, t-shirts in stacks), shallow enough at 480 mm that nothing gets lost at the back.

What's in the PDF

• Parts list with dimensions - 44 parts total across 10 part types (sides, top, bottom, divider, drawer rails, fronts, sides, backs, bottoms, back panel). Every part labeled, quantified, and dimensioned in mm.
• Optimized cutting diagram - generated from 18 mm plywood sheets (2440 × 1220 mm / 4'×8'). Color-coded by part type so you can see at a glance which piece goes where.
• Sheet count and material cost estimate - approximate sheet usage and cost so you can budget before buying.
• Kerf accounted for - 3.2 mm (1/8") default, adjustable to your blade.

Click "Open in Optimizer" below - your parts and stock are pre-filled, you just download the PDF. No signup needed for a single optimization.

Tools you'll need

• Table saw or track saw - track saw is friendlier for full-sheet rips
• Drill driver, plus a 32 mm shelf-pin jig if you want adjustable drawer slides
• Pocket-hole jig (Kreg or similar) for fast carcass joinery
• Long parallel clamps - at least four, ideally six, for squaring the carcass
• Edge-banding iron and a flush-trim bit if you want the front edges to look finished

Time estimate

One day to break down the sheets and cut all parts. One day to assemble the carcass. One day to build all six drawers (since they're identical, the second through sixth go fast). Half a day to install slides and hang drawer fronts. Plus finishing time. Three to four shop days for a first build, two for someone who's done a dresser before.

Build sequence

1. Cut the side panels and top first. They define the carcass dimensions; cut them when your saw fence is fresh.

2. Cut the bottom, center divider, and drawer rails. Drawer rails are the small horizontal strips between drawer openings - they keep the front of the carcass square.

3. Edge-band the front edges of sides, top, divider, and rails before assembly. Iron-on banding on flat parts is much easier than fighting it on an assembled box.

4. Drill holes for drawer slides on both sides and the divider. Use a shelf-pin jig at 32 mm centers, or mark each pair manually if you want a specific drawer height. Doing this before assembly saves cursing later.

5. Assemble the carcass with pocket screws and glue. Square it with a 90-degree clamp at every corner. Drop in the back panel last - it locks the box square.

6. Build all six drawers. Drawer sides are joined to drawer fronts and backs with simple butt joints + glue + brads, or pocket screws if you want stronger. The drawer bottom is captured in a 5 mm groove cut on the inside of all four pieces.

7. Install drawer slides. Full-extension ball-bearing slides (18" length for a 460 mm drawer side). Mount the slide to the drawer first, then to the carcass - the carcass-side slide has slotted screw holes for adjustment.

8. Hang the drawer fronts. Use double-sided tape to position each front exactly where you want it on the drawer box, then drive screws from inside the drawer into the front. The 3 mm reveal is built into the cut list - don't "fix" it.

Material options

• Plywood (18 mm) - the default. Cabinet-grade is worth it for the visible parts (sides, top, drawer fronts). Construction-grade is fine for the back and drawer bottoms.
• Solid wood drawer fronts - if you want a higher-end look, swap the plywood drawer fronts for glued-up panels of solid hardwood (oak, maple, walnut). Same dimensions, different material. Update the optimizer to skip the drawer fronts and source those separately.
• MDF for painted fronts - smooth surface for paint, no grain to telegraph through. Use the MDF calculator to plan that cut.
• Pre-finished plywood - skip finishing entirely. Maple-faced pre-finished plywood is sold at most cabinet-supply stores.

Common mistakes

Skipping the back panel. The back keeps the carcass square. Without it, the drawers will start binding within a year as the carcass racks.

Cheap drawer slides. A dresser opens and closes 5-10 times a day. Friction-glide plastic slides bind, sag, and wear out in two years. Full-extension ball-bearing slides cost $15 a pair and last forever.

Mounting drawer fronts before the slides work. If a slide binds, you'll be re-aligning fronts. Get the drawers sliding smoothly empty, then attach fronts.

Using the same plywood for the back as the fronts. You're paying for cabinet-grade where it's invisible. 6 mm hardboard or 6 mm plywood is enough for the back.

FAQ

Are these dresser plans really free?

Yes. The plans, parts list, dimensions, and PDF cutting diagram are all free during early access. No card, no part limits, no watermarks.

What does the PDF include?

The PDF has the optimized cutting diagram (sheet-by-sheet, color-coded by part), the full parts list with dimensions, kerf settings, and total sheet count. Designed to print at letter or A4 and be readable next to a saw.

Can I change the dimensions?

Yes. Open in the optimizer and edit any dimension. Want a 1200 mm-wide dresser? Change the top, bottom, drawer rail, drawer front, and back panel widths together. The optimizer regenerates the PDF instantly.

How many sheets of plywood do I need for this dresser?

Approximately 2-3 sheets of 4'×8' (2440×1220 mm) 18 mm plywood, depending on your kerf and how the optimizer packs the parts. The PDF shows the exact count.

Can I make this with three drawers instead of six?

Yes. Cut the top and sides shorter (650 mm tall instead of 1100 mm), keep the same drawer width, and skip three of the six drawer sets. Open in the optimizer and edit the side panel height.

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