Free kitchen cabinet plans PDF for a standard 10-foot kitchen run. 6 frameless base cabinets with doors and adjustable shelves, parts list, dimensions, optimized cutting diagram.
Free kitchen cabinet plans for a standard 10-foot run of frameless (Euro-style) base cabinets - six identical 760 mm-wide boxes, all the same 720 mm-tall side panels, doors hung on 35 mm cup hinges. You get the parts list, dimensions, material breakdown, and an optimized cutting diagram you can download as a PDF and take to the workshop.
The cabinets sit at standard counter height (36" / 915 mm) once you add a 38 mm hardwood top, butcher block, or stone slab. Each carcass has a back panel, an adjustable mid-shelf, and two doors with a 3 mm reveal all around for hinge adjustment.
The full cut list for kitchen cabinets in this build is 42 parts across 5 part types: 12 side panels, 6 bottoms, 6 adjustable shelves, 6 back panels, and 12 doors. Every dimension is in mm so you can move directly from cut list to saw fence without converting.
If you want to know how to make a cut list for cabinets without our template, the steps are: list every part once, group by sheet thickness, mark grain orientation if veneer is showing, then add kerf to your stock total. Skipping kerf is the most common reason a cut list is one sheet short. The optimizer below does all of that automatically when you click "Open in Optimizer" - it returns a cut list for kitchen cabinets that fits in 7 plywood sheets, with the exact arrangement printed on a PDF you can take to the table saw.
Click "Open in Optimizer" below - your parts and stock are pre-filled, you just download the PDF. No signup needed for a single optimization.
Nothing exotic. Realistic shop list:
You can build the whole run with a circular saw + a straight edge if that's what you have. A track saw just makes life easier, especially when ripping 1.2 m wide plywood.
Rough numbers for a first-time builder: half a day to cut and edge-band, a full day to assemble the carcasses, half a day to hang doors and adjust. So two long shop days plus finishing time. Experienced cabinet builders finish a 10-foot run in one long day.
The order matters more than people think.
1. Cut the side panels first. They're the most-visible part and the dimension everything else references. Any minor variation in your saw setup affects just one part type, not the whole job.
2. Cut bottoms, then shelves, then backs. The backs are the only part that hides minor errors, so save them for when you're warmed up but not when you're tired.
3. Edge-band before assembly. Iron-on banding goes on raw edges that will show after assembly - usually the front edges of side panels, the front edge of the bottom, and the visible edge of the shelves. Trim flush with a router or a hand trimmer. Doing this first makes assembly much faster.
4. Drill shelf-pin holes using a jig (Kreg shelf-pin jig is cheap and pays for itself by the third cabinet). Five rows is overkill - three positions for the adjustable shelf is enough.
5. Drill hinge-cup holes in the doors with a 35 mm Forstner bit. Set depth before drilling. Centerline of the cup is 22 mm from the door edge for a standard frameless setup.
6. Assemble carcasses with pocket screws and glue. Square each box with a 90-degree clamp before locking it down - if the box racks during assembly, the door won't sit flush.
7. Hang doors and adjust using the hinge cups' three-axis adjustment. This is the one step that makes the whole run look professional or amateurish, so don't rush.
Two cabinet styles dominate American kitchens. Face-frame cabinets (the traditional style) have a 1.5"-wide hardwood frame on the front of every box, with doors mounted to the frame. Frameless (Euro-style) skips the frame and mounts doors directly to the cabinet sides.
Frameless gives you slightly more usable interior space, simpler construction (no frame to build and align), and a more modern look. Face-frame is more forgiving of imperfect cuts because the frame hides them. We chose frameless because the cut list is shorter, the build is faster, and you don't need a stack of hardwood for the frames.
The default plan uses 18 mm cabinet-grade plywood for everything except the back panel. Drop-in alternatives:
For backs, 6 mm plywood or 3 mm hardboard is plenty - they're structural in the sense that they keep the cabinet square, but no weight rests on them.
Cutting all the parts before edge-banding. Iron-on banding is much easier on a single piece than on an assembled box. Cut, band, then assemble.
Forgetting the 3 mm reveal on doors. The cut list already accounts for it - doors are 718 × 290 mm and the openings are 723 × 295 mm. If you measure your openings and "fix" the doors to match exactly, you'll lose all your hinge adjustment range.
Using construction-grade plywood for cabinet sides. The cheap CDX plywood from a building-supply store has voids that show on cut edges and warps over time in a humid kitchen. Cabinet-grade (PureBond, Baltic birch, or marine-grade) costs more upfront and saves redo work in three years.
Skipping the back panel. The back keeps the cabinet square in shipping and over time. Even if you're going to screw the boxes to the wall, the back matters for the first 5 minutes of the cabinet's life - which is when you're moving it around.
Yes. The plans, parts list, dimensions, and PDF cutting diagram are all free during early access. No card, no part limits, no watermarks. Open the optimizer, click download, save the PDF.
The PDF has the optimized cutting diagram (sheet-by-sheet, color-coded by part), the full parts list with dimensions, kerf settings, and total sheet count. It's designed to print at 8.5×11" or A4 and be readable next to a saw.
Yes. After clicking "Open in Optimizer", every dimension is editable. If your kitchen is 12 feet instead of 10, change the cabinet quantity from 6 to 8. If you want 600 mm-wide cabinets instead of 760 mm, change the cabinet bottom width and door width together. The optimizer regenerates the PDF instantly.
Approximately 7 sheets of 4'×8' (2440×1220 mm) 18 mm plywood for the carcasses, plus 1-2 sheets of thinner stock for the backs. Final number depends on your kerf and how the optimizer packs the parts. The PDF shows the exact count.
Frameless (Euro-style). Doors mount directly to the cabinet sides on 35 mm cup hinges. Frameless is faster to build, gives slightly more interior space, and looks more modern. If you want face-frame, the carcass cut list is the same - just add face-frame stock from solid hardwood.
The dimensions are sized for base (lower) cabinets. Upper cabinets are typically 300-350 mm deep instead of 580 mm, and 600-900 mm tall instead of 720 mm. Open this template in the optimizer, change the side panel and bottom dimensions, and the PDF regenerates for uppers. Or build a separate template for uppers - it's on the roadmap.
Back to the cut list calculator • Browse all templates • Compared to CutListOptimizer
| Part | Length (mm) | Width (mm) | Qty |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cabinet side | 720 | 580 | 12 |
| Cabinet bottom | 568 | 560 | 6 |
| Cabinet shelf | 564 | 556 | 6 |
| Cabinet back | 720 | 572 | 6 |
| Door | 718 | 290 | 12 |
Stock: Plywood (18mm) 2440 × 1220mm · ~$52.0/sheet
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