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Free TV stand plans for a 1500 mm-wide media console sized to support a 65" TV with comfortable margin on each side. You get the parts list, dimensions, material breakdown, and an optimized cutting diagram you can download as a PDF and take to the workshop.

Two open compartments for a soundbar, console, and AV gear; one closed compartment with a door for the boxes, cables, and remotes you don't want guests to see. 400 mm tall, which puts the screen at a comfortable height for most living-room sofas. Cable pass-throughs in the back panel - cut them before assembly so they look intentional, not afterthought.

What's in the PDF

• Parts list with dimensions - 8 parts total across 7 part types (top, bottom, sides, dividers, back panel, door, inner shelf). Every part labeled, quantified, and dimensioned in mm.
• Optimized cutting diagram - generated from 18 mm plywood sheets (2440 × 1220 mm / 4'×8'). Color-coded by part type so you see at a glance which piece is which.
• Sheet count and material cost estimate - approximate sheet usage so you can budget before buying.
• Kerf accounted for - 3.2 mm (1/8") default, adjustable to your blade.

Click "Open in Optimizer" below - your parts and stock are pre-filled, you just download the PDF. No signup needed for a single optimization.

Tools you'll need

• Track saw or table saw for the long top and bottom panels (1500 mm needs a fence longer than most circular saws come with)
• Drill driver and a 50 mm hole saw for cable pass-throughs
• Pocket-hole jig for the carcass joinery
• Long parallel clamps - 1500 mm is wider than most workshops own clamps for, so plan ahead
• One pair of cup hinges for the door (35 mm Forstner bit needed)
• Edge-banding iron and a flush-trim bit - non-negotiable on a piece this visible

Time estimate

One day to break down the sheet and cut all parts. One day to assemble carcass, hang door, install inner shelf. Plus finishing time. Two long shop days plus stain or paint, or a full weekend including drying.

Build sequence

1. Cut the top and bottom first. They're the longest parts and benefit from a track saw run. Any minor variation in your saw setup affects two parts that aren't visually adjacent, so it's forgiving.

2. Cut the sides and dividers. The dividers split the stand into three bays - left open, center closed, right open.

3. Drill cable pass-throughs in the back panel. One 50 mm hole behind each bay. Position them low so the cables don't show when the TV sits on top.

4. Edge-band the front edges of top, bottom, sides, and dividers. Iron, trim flush, sand to 220. Do this on flat parts before assembly.

5. Drill cup-hinge holes in the door. 35 mm Forstner bit, 22 mm centerline from the door edge. Two hinges per door at this height.

6. Assemble the carcass with pocket screws and glue. The dividers attach to the top and bottom; sides attach to top and bottom too. Square it with parallel clamps - it's wide, so use four clamps minimum.

7. Install the inner shelf in the closed bay on shelf pins or fixed dadoes. Pins give you adjustability; dadoes are slightly more solid.

8. Hang the door and adjust. Cup hinges have three-axis adjustment. Take your time on this step - it's the most-visible alignment in the whole piece.

Material options

• Plywood (18 mm) - the default. Cabinet-grade is worth it for the top, sides, and door.
• Melamine - cheaper and pre-finished. Use the melamine cut calculator for the cut. Melamine is forgiving on edges and a fine choice for a piece that mostly hides behind the TV.
• MDF - smooth paint surface for a contemporary white or matte black look. Heavier - factor that into your moving plans. Use the MDF calculator.
• Solid hardwood top - if you want a higher-end look, swap the 1500 mm plywood top for a glued-up solid panel. Same dimension, different stock.

Common mistakes

Skipping cable pass-throughs. A TV stand without them has visible cables snaking around the back. Drill them before you close up the carcass.

No back panel. Without a back, dust accumulates on every component, and the stand racks side-to-side over time.

Mounting the door without checking the reveal. The cut list builds in a 3 mm reveal around the door. If you measure the opening and "fix" the door to fit exactly, you'll lose all hinge adjustment range.

Building this without considering wall mounting. A 1500 mm-wide TV stand with a 65" TV on top is tall, narrow, and front-heavy. If you have kids or large dogs, secure the stand to a wall stud with a furniture-anchor strap. Plywood blocking inside the back of the carcass gives you something solid to drive that anchor into.

FAQ

Are these TV stand plans really free?

Yes. The plans, parts list, dimensions, and PDF cutting diagram are all free during early access. No card, no part limits, no watermarks.

What does the PDF include?

The PDF has the optimized cutting diagram (sheet-by-sheet, color-coded by part), the full parts list with dimensions, kerf settings, and total sheet count. Designed to print at letter or A4 and be readable next to a saw.

Will this fit my 75-inch TV?

The 1500 mm width fits a 65" TV with margin. A 75" TV is around 1670 mm wide - bump the top, bottom, and back panel widths to 1750 mm in the optimizer for a comfortable fit. Sides, dividers, and door stay the same.

How many sheets of plywood do I need?

Approximately 1.5-2 sheets of 4'×8' (2440×1220 mm) 18 mm plywood, depending on kerf and packing. The PDF shows exact count.

Can I add doors to all three compartments?

Yes. Open in the optimizer and add two more door parts (484×374 mm each). You'll need two more pairs of cup hinges. The cut list includes one door by default to keep the open shelves visible for soundbars and styling.

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